By Jessica Owen 09 December 2021
La ropa hecha con grafeno ahora está en la calle principal. Jessica Owen explora cómo dos compañías, Superdry y Reebok, lo han hecho posible.
El grafeno, una capa de un átomo de espesor de átomos de carbono dispuestos en una red hexagonal, se ha ganado su reputación como un “material maravilloso” por su resistencia, conductividad eléctrica y peso ligero. Sin embargo, a pesar de estas impresionantes cualidades, el grafeno solo se ha integrado con éxito en un puñado de productos, como trajes de neopreno de alta gama y calzado de alto rendimiento. Pero ahora, 17 años después de que se descubriera por primera vez, la ropa a base de grafeno está llegando a la calle principal gracias a marcas como Reebok y Superdry. Superdry and Versarien are collaborating to produce graphene-enhanced garments using Versarien’s GRAPHENE-WEAR technology. Image credit: Versarien
Superdry y Versarien están colaborando para producir prendas mejoradas con grafeno utilizando la tecnología GRAPHENE-WEAR de Versarien.
Neill Ricketts, CEO del grupo de materiales avanzados Versarien, que está colaborando con Superdry para fabricar productos de grafeno, dice: “Ahora es el momento del grafeno”.
Y añade: “Es como lo que pasó con los coches eléctricos. Si la gente hablara de autos eléctricos hace 10 años, serían considerados locos. Hace cinco años y no estabas loco, pero estabas en minoría. Y ahora hay coches eléctricos por todas partes y es lo mismo que está pasando con el grafeno”.
Tanto Reebok como Superdry están utilizando grafeno para crear prendas conductoras de calor para mantener al usuario caliente. La colección Thermowarm+Graphene de Reebok, que comprende pantalones, una sudadera con capucha de lana de algodón y una chaqueta con cremallera, ayuda a retener entre un 8 y un 15% más de calor que los textiles convencionales, dice la compañía.
Para utilizar el grafeno en el enfoque más comercial y versátil posible, Reebok ha desarrollado una impresión de rodillos con infusión de grafeno en cuatro tejidos y dos textiles de punto. Con este enfoque de impresión, la compañía dice que puede amplificar la retención de calor de cualquiera de sus textiles.
El grafeno es una capa de un átomo de espesor de átomos de carbono dispuestos en una red hexagonal.
Todos los productos cuentan con una impresión de cuadrícula THERMOWARM +GRAPHENE estratégicamente colocada en las principales zonas de retención de calor, que se determinaron a través del mapeo infrarrojo del cuerpo. La impresión de grafeno convierte las áreas identificadas como zonas de pérdida de calor del cuerpo en zonas de retención de calor, como los forros de la capucha y los yugos de los hombros en las chaquetas y los paneles de la parte superior del muslo en los pantalones y las medias, explica la compañía. Chandler Frost, gerente senior de productos de Reebok, dice: “El grafeno es el sueño de un comercializador, ya que es ampliamente aceptado como el material más ligero, delgado y fuerte de la Tierra en su forma más pura”. Y añade: “Si bien podríamos contar una historia de ligereza o durabilidad con el material, decidimos contar una historia de calentamiento elevado centrándonos en las incomparables propiedades de retención de calor del grafeno. La mayoría de las compañías de ropa deportiva tienen su propia versión de un material de calentamiento ligero estándar, pero nos propusimos amplificar el efecto de calentamiento de nuestros materiales y siluetas de estilo de vida atlético agregando la impresión THERMOWARM + GRAPHENE al interior de nuestras prendas “.
En otros lugares, Superdry y Versarien están colaborando para producir prendas mejoradas con grafeno utilizando la tecnología GRAPHENE-WEAR de Versarien. Al igual que Reebok, Versarien imprime grafeno en textiles a través de la impresión de pantalla o de inyección de tinta, aunque utiliza una tinta de grafeno desarrollada por la Universidad de Cambridge (Reino Unido), no una pasta. La tinta se aplica de nuevo al interior de las prendas.
Ricketts explica: “El grafeno tiene un área de superficie realmente alta y conduce la electricidad y el calor de una manera muy diferente a como alguna vez imaginamos como ingenieros”. Y añade: “Así que podemos imprimir grafeno en el interior de una prenda y eso actúa como una vía para dejar que la energía térmica fluya. Actualmente estamos trabajando con el Royal College of Arts (Londres, Reino Unido) para comprender mejor y optimizar esto”.
La impresión de grafeno es posiblemente la forma más fácil de crear productos escalables y rentables.
La impresión de grafeno es posiblemente la forma más fácil de crear productos escalables y rentables para el mercado masivo porque se puede lograr utilizando la maquinaria de impresión existente de rollo a rollo. De hecho, Frost dice que el aumento de las impresiones de grafeno de Reebok es casi el mismo que cualquier impresión de rodillo estándar, lo que permite a la compañía “vender una tecnología de calentamiento de pináculos a precios comerciales”.
Entonces, si la escala y los costos ya no son un problema, ¿por qué no hay más colecciones de ropa a base de grafeno en la calle principal? Bueno, Frost y Ricketts dicen que se debe principalmente a las pruebas, la estandarización y la estética.
Frost dice: “Dado que el uso de grafeno aún es tan nuevo, el mayor desafío del equipo fue identificar el protocolo óptimo de pruebas de laboratorio y establecer umbrales mínimos para la retención de calor en función de los resultados de esas pruebas”.
Esto es importante porque las industrias no quieren terminar con el “lavado de grafeno” y arruinar la reputación del grafeno, especialmente si se mueve hacia aplicaciones de mayor volumen como textiles o automotriz. Es por eso que el equipo de Versarien está trabajando en estrecha colaboración con organismos de normalización como ISO para establecer un nivel de rendimiento de referencia.
Ricketts explica: “Ese es un problema con la nueva tecnología, no siempre tiene sus patos en fila. Habrá cierto rechazo de las empresas que no podrán alcanzar los estándares requeridos, pero se necesita el nivel correcto de estandarización para que el grafeno se use de manera tangible”.
La colección de Reebok ayuda a retener entre un 8 y un 15% más de calor que los textiles convencionales.
Por ahora, sin embargo, todo el grafeno de Versarien se verifica de forma independiente. La compañía espera que esta diligencia debida le dé la reputación de “grafeno en el que puede confiar”, lo que le permitirá diferenciarse de la próxima competencia. Dicho esto, Ricketts espera una mayor competencia porque debería acelerar la innovación.
Él explica: “Si hay algo que hemos aprendido de la historia de Tesla es que la vida es realmente difícil si eres el único fabricante de vehículos eléctricos. Esto se debe a que necesita el alcance global de los consumidores que hablan de ello.
“Si quieres ser el mejor producto, quieres ofrecer el mejor rendimiento y quieres ser el más viable comercialmente, la competencia te permite ser el mejor del mercado. Y eso es a lo que apuntamos”.
En cuanto a la estética, el grafeno actualmente solo está disponible en el color negruzco y grafito. Esto limita el diseño, que es otra razón por la que tanto Reebok como Versarien lo están imprimiendo en el interior de sus prendas.
Otra razón por la que el grafeno ha tardado tanto en entrar en el mercado es porque es tan nuevo. Se requiere mucha I + D para procesar el material y decidir la mejor manera de integrarlo en los textiles. Pero ahora que compañías como Versarien, Superdry y Reebok han creado un plan, es probable que otras compañías sigan su ejemplo. Especialmente teniendo en cuenta cómo el grafeno podría ayudar con otros movimientos de la industria, como la sostenibilidad y los textiles inteligentes.
Frost concluye: “Con todas las increíbles características del grafeno, sin duda será un material influyente en el futuro”.
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