Permitir una revolución sostenible en el teñido textil
- 29 de junio de 2021
- Publicado por: Juan Manuel
- Categoría: novedades
Por Andrew Filarowski, director técnico de la Society of Dyers and Colourists, 28 June 2021
La sostenibilidad en la industria del teñido actualmente pinta un panorama confuso. El público en general se ve constantemente acribillado por los muchos aspectos negativos percibidos —basados en conceptos erróneos históricos, en lugar de realidades actuales— que son totalmente inútiles.
En su lugar, la industria debería tener en cuenta los cambios positivos actualmente en curso que están teniendo un impacto real en la sostenibilidad, para que podamos seguir construyendo sobre ellos y trabajar para ser mejores cada día, en lugar de limitarse a hablar de boquilla sobre una agenda medioambiental más amplia.
Es bien sabido que el sector es un gran usuario de agua, pero algunas estadísticas a menudo no consideran cuál es la mejor práctica y en su lugar se centran en los peores ejemplos de uso del agua, uso de energía y efluencia. Nadie está tratando de ocultar el hecho de que existen malas prácticas, pero la industria, incluidos los fabricantes de máquinas y productos químicos, tiene la tecnología y las habilidades para reducir el impacto que esto tiene. Es responsabilidad de todos invertir en estas tecnologías.
Andrew Filarowski, director técnico, Sociedad de Tintoreros y Coloristas
IMPULSORES DE LA SOSTENIBILIDAD
Durante muchos años, las organizaciones no gubernamentales (ONG) han impulsado la agenda de sostenibilidad al fomentar la conversación y han trabajado con las tintoristas para mejorar los procesos con el fin de reducir el uso de agua y los efluentes potencialmente dañinos.
Más recientemente, las marcas han estado dando un paso al frente, escudriñando sus cadenas de suministro y especificando que los tintoreros deben cumplir con criterios específicos para trabajar con ellos, incluido el de ser respetuosos con el medio ambiente. Ya sea que se trate de lavado verde o de lo real, este ejercicio de casilla de verificación todavía puede provocar un cambio en un goteo desde la parte superior, lo que obliga a los tintoreros a incluir procesos más sostenibles.
Los gobiernos también están actuando con muchos despertando al interés del público en la preservación del medio ambiente y legislando en consecuencia. Aunque lento —la elaboración de leyes es un proceso que lleva mucho tiempo—, ya podemos ver que las nuevas reglamentaciones están teniendo efecto.
Está claro que trabajando juntos, los gobiernos, las ONG y la industria pueden hacer lo correcto y priorizar una agenda verde, y que esto puede hacer toda la diferencia.
IMPLEMENTACIÓN
La legislación y las acreditaciones pueden trabajar en tándem hacia prácticas más sostenibles. Establecer un estándar mínimo dentro de las regulaciones locales y regionales es un gran primer paso, pero las acreditaciones que verifican de forma independiente las buenas prácticas y van más allá son una necesidad, especialmente cuando las marcas inspeccionan la cadena de suministro.
La capacitación y la devolución del conocimiento científico a la casa de tintes también es imprescindible. Los técnicos y gerentes deben comprender los procesos químicos dentro de los recipientes de teñido para poder optimizarlos y reducir el uso de agua y la contaminación potencial. Innovar nuevos procesos y aprovechar el poder de la tecnología es imposible sin tintoreros debidamente calificados, algo por lo que la industria está desesperada a medida que la brecha de habilidades continúa creciendo.
De hecho, según una investigación reciente de la Sociedad de Tintoreros y Coloristas, el 78% de la industria está descubriendo que es incapaz de contratar a las personas que necesita en el panorama actual. La falta de inversión en formación por parte de los empleadores, así como las connotaciones negativas de la industria que parecen tener los jóvenes se nombran como una de las principales causas en nuestra reciente encuesta mundial.
Y, sin esta experiencia química dentro de la cadena de suministro textil, será imposible impulsar una revolución de la sostenibilidad. Las nuevas tecnologías están ganando tracción y se están volviendo disponibles comercialmente, pero las casas de tintes están descubriendo que no tienen los recursos humanos para implementarlas u operarlas. Esta falta de conocimiento fundamental es una cosa que potencialmente frena algunas de estas innovaciones. Fashion for Good es una iniciativa que está apoyando muchas nuevas tecnologías que necesitan ganar más tracción en el área de coloración y acabado.
Las nuevas fibras también están siendo elogiadas actualmente como la respuesta a la producción sostenible de fibras, pero estas deben investigarse más a fondo en sus características de teñido. Aunque los nuevos desarrollos en esta área están en el mercado, se están haciendo para que se ajusten a los procesos de teñido actuales, ya que la industria está tan arraigada en las formas actuales que no sería rentable hacer una nueva fibra que requiera técnicas nuevas e inauditas.
En este caso, la sostenibilidad de las nuevas fibras se encuentra en la etapa de cultivo y fabricación, en lugar de en la etapa de tinte: la composición química de la fibra seguirá siendo la misma, con las características físicas necesarias para satisfacer las necesidades de la tecnología y los procesos de teñido actuales.
Además de esto, los propios colorantes pueden desempeñar un papel muy importante en la reducción del impacto ambiental. Sin embargo, vale la pena tener cuidado cuando el lenguaje puede hacer que un producto de tinte suene más verde de lo que realmente es. De hecho, los colorantes “naturales” hechos de plantas o animales pueden tener un gran impacto ambiental como sus homólogos petroquímicos y, por lo tanto, deben tomarse como una alternativa respetuosa con el medio ambiente con precaución.
Por otro lado, los nuevos desarrollos e innovaciones en las técnicas de teñido están saliendo a la mente. Un reciente e interesante es el uso de tintes biológicos para crear prácticas más sostenibles. Este proceso utiliza bacterias genéticamente modificadas para colorear la tela, y utiliza mucha menos agua que los colorantes tradicionales, y podría ser un cambio de juego en la industria.
EL PAPEL DE LAS MARCAS
Es vital que las marcas, los diseñadores y los tintoreros se comuniquen de manera más efectiva. Y es igualmente importante que los minoristas entiendan que el precio más barato no debe ser su principal preocupación, sino la calidad y el valor del producto, y con mejores credenciales ecológicas.
Por lo general, un comprador no tendría contacto con el comprador del producto final: el fabricante de prendas de vestir se interpone y, por lo tanto, las líneas de diálogo están cerradas, con el intermediario buscando reducir los gastos generales para aumentar las ganancias.
Fashion For Good también está haciendo un trabajo fantástico para facilitar la comunicación y lograr un cambio en muchas de estas áreas, y hay muchas otras organizaciones benéficas y organizaciones que están negociando conversaciones entre las casas de tintes y los minoristas de productos finales. Sin esto, las marcas tendrían un conocimiento limitado de dónde había venido su producto y qué impacto ya ha tenido en el medio ambiente.
Podemos ver que, con o sin sistema de etiquetado, los tintoreros ahora tienen que ajustarse a las normas de los minoristas individuales a medida que este punto se hace más publicitado. Algunos minoristas ahora incluso están prohibiendo los productos que usan ciertas sustancias dentro del proceso, lo que evidencia que pueden ejercer poder en toda la cadena de suministro y, por lo tanto, deben optar por hacerlo de manera responsable.
Con la sostenibilidad en un lugar destacado de la agenda para muchos en el público en general, las marcas también están intensificando para dar a conocer que son respetuosas con el medio ambiente en su cadena de suministro. Una vez más, greenwashing o no, esto está provocando un cambio real.
Para ser más sostenible, Andrew Filarowski insta a la industria del teñido a alejarse de la moda rápida producida en masa
PENSAR FUERA DE LA CAJA
Aunque rara vez se menciona, los diseñadores pueden tener mucha influencia en la etapa de tinte, trabajando con paletas de colores que son más limitadas para permitir la pigmentación masiva de la tela. Esto es ciertamente mucho menos intensivo en agua, pero requiere un gran cambio de mentalidad para el público. Sin embargo, si alguien puede, son los diseñadores dentro de las casas de moda de renombre para lograr esto.
También hay algo que decir sobre el cambio de los procesos de pensamiento que rodean el uso de la ropa durante más tiempo. Todos sabemos que la “moda rápida” se reconoce cada vez más como algo que hay que superar, pero los pensamientos tienden a ir al coste humano de la fabricación de estas prendas, como el trabajo forzoso y el comercio poco ético.
Por lo tanto, una menor demanda de moda rápida también crearía prácticas más sostenibles en el teñido, ya que las personas eligen la calidad sobre la cantidad. La rapidez del color entra en juego aquí, ya que la gente ahora simplemente tira una prenda una vez que se desvanece. Esto se debe de nuevo a una falta de educación y conocimiento en la etapa de tinte, y algo que la formación puede superar.
Un cambio en la filosofía del mundo en general hacia el diseño y el uso de la ropa tendrá un efecto inmediato en el impacto del teñido textil en el medio ambiente.
PERSPECTIVA DEL TEÑIDO
Me gustaría pensar que todas las casas de tinte que la COSUDE conoce y con las que trabaja siguen la legislación y regulación local, regional y nacional que rodea el proceso de teñido, y que trabajan arduamente para implementar y promover las mejores prácticas cuando se trata de sostenibilidad.
Sin embargo, todavía hay mucho trabajo por hacer, y eso comienza con la educación. Desde las marcas y los minoristas, hasta los diseñadores, los fabricantes de prendas de vestir y, por supuesto, los tintoreros, el conocimiento de los procesos químicos detrás del teñido es crucial para garantizar que podamos seguir desarrollando e innovando nuevas tecnologías y formas de trabajo que tendrán cada vez menos impacto en el mundo natural.
Tal como está, hay muchas cosas emocionantes en la tubería que se están volviendo disponibles comercialmente, por lo que es vital que las casas de tintes busquen adoptarlas al ritmo y desarrollar el talento internamente para poder aprovechar el poder de estas soluciones.
El mundo está despertando a las preocupaciones ambientales, y si las casas de tinte que tienen credenciales de sostenibilidad deficientes no cambian sus formas, entonces sin duda serán expulsadas por completo por los competidores que están adoptando la innovación.
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