Aprovechando la tecnología de tejido plano
- 30 de noviembre de 2021
- Publicado por: Juan Manuel
- Categoría: novedades
La filial de tejido de MAS Holdings ha desarrollado una técnica de tejido de ingeniería (E-Knit) para múltiples aplicaciones. Jessica Owen habla con el equipo para saber más.
Por Jessica Owen
Con más de 100.000 empleados en 16 países, el fabricante de Sri Lanka MAS Holdings es una fuerza textil a tener en cuenta. La experiencia de la compañía abarca desde trajes de baño hasta ropa médica, ropa interior absorbente de períodos (Thinx) y, por supuesto, prendas de punto.
MAS Holdings posee alrededor de 1.000 máquinas de tejer planas Stoll
Su última innovación, que ha estado en desarrollo durante los últimos dos años, se llama Engineered Knit (también conocido como E-Knit). Desarrollado por los expertos en tejido de la organización en su subsidiaria MAS Fabrics – Matrix, E-Knit es una nueva fabricación que se ha creado para capitalizar la tecnología de tejido plano infrautilizada.
Nadisha Daniel, gerente general de Desarrollo de Negocios de MAS Fabrics – Matrix, dice: “Nuestra intención es realmente ampliar los límites de nuestra cartera de productos y elevarla utilizando la tecnología E-Knit”.
Agrega: “Hay tanto potencial que la tecnología de tejido plano puede aportar a la ropa. Convencionalmente, la gente todavía corta y cose y el tejido plano se ha sentado en la esquina, pero creemos que esta tecnología tiene tantas capacidades que pueden elevar nuestra gama de productos en comparación con otras tecnologías disponibles “.
MAS Holdings posee alrededor de 1,000 máquinas de tejido plano Stoll y tiene la capacidad de tejer calibres que van de siete a 18. De hecho, Daniel dice que tiene una capacidad inusualmente grande para calibre 18, algo que es exclusivo de la empresa.
E-Knit también está fabricado con tecnología Stoll. Específicamente, se crea a partir de una combinación de hilos de fibra y filamentos y el proceso permite manipular las propiedades centrales de la tela. Se pueden modificar características como el grosor, la transpirabilidad y la regulación del calor y el resultado es una prenda que se ajusta bien y proporciona un soporte adecuado y una mayor comodidad al usuario. E-Knit también permite la eliminación de costuras en la prenda que pueden causar irritación de la piel, haciéndola más ligera, transpirable y cómoda en el cuerpo.
Daniel dice: “Nuestro enfoque principal para E-Knit está en el sector de la capa intermedia. Esto podría ser para deportes y ese tipo de productos. E-Knit también nos está ayudando a expandirnos hacia prendas que se sientan más cerca del cuerpo, como sujetadores y calzoncillos “.
Uthpala Subodha, gerente de Diseño, MAS Fabrics – Matrix, agrega: “Otros productos clave que estamos explorando incluyen ropa de dormir y ropa de dormir porque podemos utilizar materiales naturales con esta tecnología”.
E-Knit se crea a partir de una combinación de hilos básicos y filamentosos
El equipo de MAS Fabrics – Matrix dice que ha visto un marcado aumento en la demanda de ropa de calle y ropa deportiva desde la pandemia de Covid-19. El cambio del trabajo en la oficina al hogar ha cambiado los requisitos de la moda a los de comodidad y estilo, y los consumidores buscan más prendas que también tengan versatilidad, según el equipo.
Asela Dodanwela, subdirectora general técnica de MAS Fabrics – Matrix, añade: “Vemos una tendencia hacia la gente que quiere productos más acogedores durante todo el día. Por lo tanto, tener la capacidad de tejer hilos cortos, básicos y cómodos que pueden crear telas elevadas es una verdadera adición de valor para nosotros. La pandemia está cambiando la forma en que los consumidores usan las prendas, por lo que definitivamente hay una ventaja en la forma en que vemos que se usa la tecnología E-Knit “.
Actualmente, la compañía está trabajando con alrededor de 15 marcas para integrar E-Knit en sus líneas. Si bien el equipo no puede nombrar ningún nombre, la tecnología E-Knit será evidente en colecciones conocidas de ropa deportiva, lencería y ropa de lujo en el futuro inmediato.
Además del elemento de comodidad y rendimiento que E-Knit ofrece en la ropa, MAS Fabrics – Matrix dice que también es un enfoque de fabricación más sostenible. Como ya se señaló, la tecnología funciona bien con materiales naturales y también se pueden utilizar hilos biodegradables y reciclados.
Daniel dice: “Debido a que nuestra tecnología funciona con fibras cortas cortadas, funciona bien con hilos reciclados como el poliéster y la conversión de ropa vieja en hilos básicos”.
Agrega: “También contamos con la capacidad de colaboración y abastecimiento para garantizar que nuestros productos sean verdaderamente sostenibles. Trabajamos con empresas como Lenzing y The Woolmark Company y nos estamos expandiendo hacia mezclas sintéticas y recicladas “.
Estos tipos de materiales presentan desafíos relacionados con el rendimiento, la durabilidad, los enganches y las roturas, dice Daniel. Sin embargo, el equipo lleva a cabo procesos prolongados para probar y validar productos y materiales antes de mostrárselos a los clientes.
En otros lugares, la empresa trabaja con tintes naturales para colorear sus hilos y la producción “verdaderamente sin costuras” también es posible para ciertas aplicaciones, como las mallas, dice Dodanwela. Por ejemplo, el tejido plano permite al técnico reducir gradualmente el ancho del panel para adaptarse a la forma de una pierna, lo que puede resultar en un ahorro de desperdicio de entre un 15 y un 25%. Si bien los consumidores son cada vez más conscientes de la contaminación del agua relacionada con los textiles y la ropa no biodegradable, los desechos asociados con la producción son menos conocidos. Con eso en mente, Dodanwela cree que otros desarrollos de ahorro de residuos podrían ser una dirección futura para la innovación.
Actualmente, la compañía está trabajando con alrededor de 15 marcas para integrar E-Knit en sus líneas.
Además de las credenciales sostenibles de E-Knit, los clientes de MAS también están intrigados por las opciones de personalización, dice el equipo. MAS Fabrics – Matrix es una “organización centrada en el diseño” y ofrece a los clientes conjuntos de herramientas para mezclar y combinar fabricaciones y diseños de acuerdo con las necesidades de la marca. Este enfoque le sirvió a la empresa durante la pandemia, ya que pudo comprender las necesidades y comunicarse de forma remota con sus clientes, dice Daniel.
Él dice: “Al principio, realmente deseábamos que la pandemia no hubiera sucedido. Pero nos acostumbramos. Esa es la belleza de tener un equipo que comprende las necesidades y el proceso de pensamiento del diseñador: podemos desarrollar productos de la misma manera de forma remota “.
Dicho esto, con menos restricciones de viaje ahora, el equipo de Matrix fomenta las visitas in situ, ya que pueden reducir significativamente los plazos de entrega. Esto también permite a los clientes tener la oportunidad de interactuar mejor con la capacidad E-Knit.
Otro ingenio que mantiene a la marca MAS en la cima incluye la integración de E-Knit en aplicaciones de tecnología portátil, dice Dodanwela. Por ejemplo, se pueden utilizar hilos específicos y técnicas de bodymapping zonal para crear prendas con propiedades térmicas. En otros lugares, también se están preparando innovaciones relacionadas con el tejido circular y el encaje, dice Surein Wijeyeratne, director de Comunicaciones Corporativas de MAS Holdings. Él dice que se avecinan muchas otras cosas interesantes, especialmente en la parte del encaje de los negocios. Por ejemplo, el equipo está convirtiendo la capacidad en la subsidiaria de MAS Holdings, Noyon, para lidiar con más encajes de ingeniería.
Palitha Liyanage, directora ejecutiva de MAS Fabrics – Matrix, concluye: “Nuestras capacidades de tejido nos permiten crear productos con propósito y centrados en el consumidor. Estamos entusiasmados de crear soluciones innovadoras “.
Para obtener más información sobre MAS Holdings, visite www.masholdings.com
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