La industria de la moda reprime la sostenibilidad ambiental
- 2 de marzo de 2022
- Publicado por: Juan Manuel
- Categoría: novedades
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By Jessica Owen
A medida que los gobiernos comienzan a tomar medidas drásticas contra el lavado verde y la sostenibilidad ambiental en toda la cadena de valor textil y de la confección, Jessica Owen habla con la industria para conocer su opinión sobre los planes.
La sostenibilidad ambiental ha estado en la parte superior de la agenda de la industria textil y de la confección durante varios años.
Si bien parece que las marcas están tratando de reducir los residuos, disminuir las emisiones de gases de efecto invernadero o aumentar la longevidad de los productos (ya sea a través de programas de reciclaje, procesos de fabricación menos derrochadores o compensación de carbono, por ejemplo), no hay suficiente transparencia o autoridad para garantizar que realmente actúen de manera responsable. Es por eso que los gobiernos de todo el mundo están comenzando a intervenir.
Por ejemplo, la Autoridad de Competencia y Mercados (CMA) del Reino Unido ha lanzado una revisión de las afirmaciones ambientales hechas por la industria de la moda. La CMA dice que examinará las reclamaciones ambientales dirigidas a los clientes del Reino Unido para determinar si las marcas de moda están cumpliendo o no con la ley de protección al consumidor.
El portavoz dice: “En última instancia, si la CMA encuentra que una empresa está participando en información engañosa o está violando la ley del consumidor, entonces tomará medidas de cumplimiento cuando sea necesario”.
La revisión proviene de la parte posterior del Código De Reclamaciones Verdes, que se publicó en septiembre de 2021. El código detalla cómo las afirmaciones ambientales deben ser precisas, claras para que todos las entiendan y tener evidencia creíble para respaldar la afirmación. También establece que la información de desechabilidad debe estar presente en la etiqueta del producto y cualquier información que no pueda caber en el producto se puede acceder de otra manera, como a través de un código QR.
El Defensor del Consumidor de Dinamarca también ha publicado una orientación similar. Las directrices se introdujeron por primera vez en 2014 y ahora se han actualizado debido a que el Defensor del Consumidor danés recibió fondos adicionales para “combatir el lavado verde en la comercialización”.
Hablando con WTiN, Nikolaj Juhl Hansen, socio de Magnusson Law, dice: “Las nuevas directrices establecen requisitos de comunicación y documentación muy duros, especialmente para el ‘marketing general’ sobre ser ‘verde’, ‘sostenible’ y similares. Las directrices servirán como una dirección clara para lo que las empresas pueden y no pueden decir en esta área y muchas empresas tendrán que ajustar lo que dicen y cómo lo dicen”.
Y añade: “El riesgo de ‘ser atrapado’ aumentará y el miedo a esto y a la mala voluntad asociada probablemente disuadirá a las empresas del lavado verde”.
Si bien las directrices se han desarrollado con buenas intenciones, Marie Bouhier, cofundadora de la compañía de calcetería del Reino Unido Billi London, está preocupada de que causen más desigualdad en la industria. Ella le dice a WTiN que la evidencia requerida para respaldar las afirmaciones depende de los análisis del ciclo de vida (ACV), que requieren tiempo y dinero para realizarse.
Ella dice: “Realizar un LCA lleva mucho tiempo, es costoso y requiere la ayuda de expertos. Realizar un LCA de un producto con un tercero, en Francia, por ejemplo, cuesta alrededor de € 10,000 (US $ 11,400). Si está produciendo una amplia gama de productos con una amplia gama de materiales e hilos, tendría que realizar un ACV diferente para cada uno de ellos”.
Ella agrega: “Pero lamentablemente, no creo que el lavado verde desaparezca por completo, incluso si se les pide a las marcas que realicen un LCA. Más allá de esto, necesitamos ver leyes internacionales más fuertes y duras para regular si un producto realmente se puede lanzar al mercado con las afirmaciones argumentadas por una marca”.
Este sentimiento es compartido en toda la industria, por lo que la Ley de Sostenibilidad de la Moda y Responsabilidad Social ha sido propuesta por el estado de Nueva York en los Estados Unidos.
La Ley de Sostenibilidad de la Moda y Responsabilidad Social ha sido propuesta por el estado de Nueva York en los Estados Unidos.
Si se aprueba el proyecto de ley, las marcas de moda con 100 millones de dólares o más en ingresos que hagan negocios en Nueva York deberán asignar un mínimo del 50% de su cadena de suministro desde la materia prima hasta el envío final. Las empresas también tendrán que revelar dónde están teniendo el mayor impacto, revelar sus volúmenes de producción de materiales y hacer “planes concretos” para reducir su impacto en la sociedad y el medio ambiente.
Las empresas tendrán 12 meses para cumplir con la factura. Después de eso, las empresas que se encuentren en violación de las reglas serán multadas con el 2% de sus ingresos anuales y serán anotadas en un informe anual publicado por el fiscal general de Nueva York.
Thomas Poli, cofundador de la marca Paradis Perdus, con sede en la ciudad de Nueva York, dice: “Creo que [el acto] es un gran comienzo, ya que hay demasiada opacidad en la cadena de suministro”.
Y añade: “Dado el impacto de la industria de la moda en el medio ambiente, las empresas no deberían tener otra opción y deberían hacer que el viaje y el costo de cada prenda estén disponibles. Incluso para las propias empresas y sus empleados, probablemente no se den cuenta del impacto de cada una de sus acciones”.
Si se aprueba el proyecto de ley, las marcas de moda deberán mapear un mínimo del 50% de sus cadenas de suministro.
El proyecto de ley ha recibido opiniones mixtas de la industria textil y de la confección. Pensando positivamente, las marcas y los proveedores creen que la medida alentará a la industria a ser más sostenible porque no quiere estar sujeta a una opinión pública negativa, lo que podría afectar las ventas.
Otros actores de la industria también han elogiado el elemento de sostenibilidad social del proyecto de ley y creen que promoverá una mejor competencia dentro de la industria.
Tricia Carey, directora de desarrollo de negocios globales para las Américas y denim en Lenzing Fibers, explica: “Estoy a favor de esta ambiciosa propuesta para brindar igualdad de condiciones a aquellas marcas que se abastecen de manera responsable. También dará más poder a las pequeñas y medianas marcas que compiten con los gigantes globales. Aporta valor sobre el precio”.
Del mismo modo, Zimri Henshaw, CEO de Bucha Bio, dice que apuntar la factura a empresas con US $ 100 millones o más en ingresos es encomiable porque significa que las empresas más pequeñas, como su nueva empresa de biomateriales, no se ven sometidas a una presión adicional mientras intentan escalar.
Zimri Henshaw, CEO de Bucha Bio, dice que apuntar la factura a compañías con US $ 100 millones o más en ingresos es encomiable
Por el contrario, la industria ya ha notado algunos problemas potenciales y lagunas. Por ejemplo, hay preocupaciones sobre cómo se auditarán las marcas y si el mapeo del 50% de la cadena de suministro es suficiente.
Henshaw dice: “Las empresas con huellas de carbono atroces se verán tentadas a trazar las partes menos condenatorias de sus procesos y una nueva serie de empresas parecerán falsamente significativamente más sostenibles y con visión de futuro que en la realidad”.
Y añade: “Pero el problema de trazar el 100% es que muchas empresas consideran legítimamente que la dinámica de su red de cadena de suministro es parte de la propiedad intelectual, los posibles secretos comerciales y la ventaja competitiva de sus negocios. Este problema puede mitigarse con el valor de su marca y la escala de operación, pero seguramente será controvertido, especialmente con las empresas que también desarrollan tecnología de materiales. Como start-up de tecnología de materiales, a pesar de que estamos defendiendo el abastecimiento sostenible y los procesos de fabricación, no nos sentiríamos cómodos mapeando el 50% de nuestra cadena de suministro y materias primas, ya que estas son altamente propiedad de Bucha Bio”.
En otros lugares, otros creen que el proyecto de ley debería haber tenido más aportes de la industria cuando se escribió para obtener una comprensión más amplia. Y un grupo de 20 organizaciones de derechos humanos y laborales ya están presionando para endurecer los requisitos de divulgación, hacer cumplir una mayor acción y establecer una responsabilidad clara sobre las marcas y los minoristas.
A pesar de estas posibles advertencias, una cosa es segura: la industria textil y de la confección debe hacerlo mejor. Estas mejoras no deben ser impulsadas simplemente por el deseo de proteger sus propios bolsillos y reputación, sino por el mejoramiento de la responsabilidad social y ambiental.
Fuente: Wtin
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