¿Puede la digitalización apoyar la conservación del agua?
- 3 de junio de 2022
- Publicado por: Juan Manuel
- Categoría: novedades

Por Otis Robinson
Otis Robinson habla con la empresa de productos químicos especializados Officina + 39 sobre sus esfuerzos de circularidad del agua y cómo la digitalización podría apoyar la conservación del agua.
El uso de agua en la industria textil y de la confección, que consume muchos recursos, sigue siendo un tema controvertido.
Los segmentos de materias primas y teñido y acabado del sector consumen enormemente agua, mientras que su gran producción de residuos industriales sigue siendo un importante contribuyente a la contaminación del agua. Los impactos del consumo de agua y la contaminación han provocado una crisis global que se manifiesta como escasez física y económica de agua, junto con impactos ambientales y sociales perjudiciales. Y aunque gran parte de la conversación de la industria gira en torno a la sostenibilidad, muchas empresas del sector son ciegas a los riesgos que plantea la contaminación del agua y no actúan con la urgencia requerida, afirma un informe de la organización internacional sin fines de lucro CDP .
Pero la ignorancia deliberada puede que ya no sea una opción a medida que los reguladores comiencen a buscar nuevas formas de manejar la crisis del agua, formas que aborden específicamente nuevos objetivos para implementar una economía circular no lineal y menos consumista. Por ejemplo, en marzo de 2020, el Plan de Acción de Economía Circular (CEAP) de la Comisión Europea propuso centrarse en la mejor gestión de las industrias intensivas en recursos. Más tarde, en febrero de 2021, el Parlamento Europeo presentó propuestas al CEAP y destacó el agua como un área de enfoque adicional para el desarrollo al considerar una economía circular.
Andrew Venier, director gerente de la empresa de productos químicos especializados con sede en Italia Officina + 39, coincide en que el uso de agua en la industria textil y de la confección a menudo se ignora en las conversaciones sobre la circularidad. Dice: “Cuando hablamos de circularidad, hablamos de materiales: tejidos y fibras. Pero en el futuro, la circularidad debería abordar el agua. Necesitamos crear un concepto circular en torno al agua. Eso es lo que estamos tratando de hacer con nuestras iniciativas y tecnologías digitales ”.
LAVADO VERDE
Officina + 39 ofrece productos químicos especiales, colorantes y pigmentos para los sectores de la tela vaquera y la confección. Situada ‘con los Alpes a sus espaldas’, Officina + 39 desarrolla alternativas eco-compatibles y digitales a las prácticas tradicionales. Venier explica que abordar los patrones de consumo de agua y la sostenibilidad ambiental es una prioridad clave y debería serlo también para toda la industria textil.
Pero Venier señala que desde que la sostenibilidad comenzó a sufrir los efectos del lavado verde, el movimiento ha entrado en un punto muerto en el camino hacia los esfuerzos genuinos de conservación del agua.
El lavado verde es una tendencia de marketing generalizada que hace que las empresas utilicen engañosamente palabras de moda como “verde”, “sostenible” o “ecológico” para atraer clientes. Esto puede generar confusión para los compradores a lo largo de la cadena de suministro que desean obtener productos genuinamente sostenibles para la producción de textiles y prendas de vestir. Para desmitificar y eliminar la jerga ecológica, Officina + 39 lanzó su programa Trustainable.
Venier dice: “Se ha abusado de la palabra sostenibilidad en los últimos años, pero dentro de este programa, estamos incluyendo las mejores prácticas [para la industria]. Eso significa usar menos productos químicos, minimizar el impacto en los entornos circundantes, reciclar los desechos, reducir la forma en que usamos el agua y la conservación del agua “.
La tecnología Novascraper Indigo de Officina + 39 digitaliza un proceso de acabado estético
DIGITALIZACIÓN
Officina + 39 también ejecuta un programa titulado Aqualess, que pretende utilizar la tecnología para reducir el uso de agua en el proceso de lavado de prendas de mezclilla y prendas de vestir en un 75%. La misión destaca cómo aquellos que se enfocan en la sustentabilidad en la industria pueden recurrir a herramientas digitales, específicamente tecnologías de acabado por láser, como una solución a prácticas insostenibles. Aunque el proceso no aborda directamente el deseo de circularidad del agua, ayuda a abordar la necesidad de reducir el uso de agua y productos químicos del acabado de mezclilla basado en la estética.
Venier explica: “La digitalización se está volviendo importante [para fortalecer los esfuerzos para reducir el consumo de agua]”.
A lo largo de los años, las tecnologías láser se han popularizado en la fabricación de textiles y prendas de vestir como una alternativa eficiente y sostenible a los procesos de acabado físico y químico tradicionales.
La tecnología digital se comercializa típicamente como una forma de reducir los patrones de consumo de agua y el uso de productos químicos. Tonello, con sede en Italia, por ejemplo, incorpora sus tecnologías láser en un concepto titulado Lavandería (R) evolución para cambiar radicalmente los procesos de acabado de prendas hacia procesos simples, digitales y automáticos que tienen en cuenta el medio ambiente.
Los procesos tradicionales también presentan un riesgo increíblemente alto para la salud de los trabajadores, y la tecnología láser se puede utilizar para eliminar tales prácticas. Jeanologia, con sede en España, por ejemplo, buscó erradicar la peligrosa práctica del pulido con chorro de arena de la industria , una tarea manual que implica arrojar arena a las prendas para producir la estética angustiada, utilizando el láser Jeanologia y otras tecnologías de su cartera. La tecnología también apunta y elimina otras tareas manuales y peligrosas, como la pulverización de PP (el uso de permanganato de potasio para crear un acabado de mezclilla específico) que puede causar irritación de la piel, ardor, enrojecimiento, dolor, picazón, daño o pérdida de la visión, náuseas y problemas gastrointestinales entre otras complicaciones de salud.
La misión Aqualess de la compañía tiene como objetivo fomentar y apoyar los esfuerzos de conservación del agua en la industria.
Officina + 39 también se ha centrado en procesos manuales de larga data. La compañía lanzó recientemente su tecnología Novascraper Indigo, una técnica de acabado con láser que agrega un ‘aspecto natural y vintage’ a las prendas de mezclilla. Como alternativa al raspado manual, el proceso requiere “menos mano de obra”, reduce la tasa de rechazo de las prendas y ayuda a generar consistencia en los productos.
Mientras tanto, para los procesos químicos que aún no han sido reemplazados por tecnologías digitales, existen procesos avanzados de limpieza de agua no químicos. En 2020, SeaChange Technologies habló con WTiN sobre su maquinaria basada en turbinas que utiliza termodinámica para destripar el lodo de las aguas residuales para limpiar el agua restante para su reutilización.
En última instancia, Officina + 39 dice que la digitalización de procesos es fundamental para el desarrollo de nuevos procesos conservadores del agua. Sin embargo, existen limitaciones, especialmente cuando se piensa en un concepto tan avanzado como la circularidad del agua en toda la cadena de suministro.
Venier concluye: “Officina + 39 se está concentrando en la innovación, para desarrollar nuevas tecnologías para que la industria reduzca su impacto. Este es un gran desafío, pero lo estamos haciendo de manera seria y transparente.
“Pero existen limitaciones para las nuevas tecnologías. Seguimos vendiendo productos químicos. Podemos reducir el impacto de la industria, y hay objetivos realistas que podemos lograr, pero el impacto cero es algo que es [actualmente difícil] “.
Fuente: Wtin Red Mundial de Información Textil
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